The Style of a Gentleman

[Grandmaster]

Style and fashion for the gentlemen is much easier - they do not wear half as much as their ladies, and the style is much simpler. A gentleman's attire is directly related to his rank and position in the Court and in the world; their choices are easily donned and require little to no assistance unless it comes to armor.

Foundation Garment:

Braes or breeks were a brief undergarment worn by the gentleman. Made of linen or cotton, it was frequently changed and laundered. For some men, this also passed for a sleeping garment.

Note: Men could and did wear short linen nightshirts for sleeping, tied at the neck and with long sleeves.

Informal/Daily Wear:

Shirt:

Typically long sleeved with either a high collar or no collar, shirts were made of linen, finely woven wool or on occasion, cotton. Laced closed at the chest, the sleeves were often full, tapered at the cuff, again tied closed. Shirts were long, often falling to mid-thigh, especially when worn with hose.

Trousers:

Pants as we know them today did not exist. Instead, men wore hose, close fitting knitted garments that were similar to leggings.

Hose is made of wool or leather. Rarely are they made of silk or cotton.

Tunic/Doublet:

The tunic is an item worn over the shirt and often belted at the waist. Tunics fall straight with splits at the side to allow for movement with no defined waist, laced closed at the side. It may or may not have sleeves, which can also be removed. Tunics typically end at mid-thigh.

A doublet is a long-sleeved garment worn in similar fashion but with a set waist from which tucked, pleated or skirted fabric falls to just above the knee. Worn with a belt, they are laced at the sides as well.

Formal/Court Attire:

Full-Skirted Doublet:

Made of a finer weave of fabric and trimmed in embroidered or woven trims, occasionally with jewels, these doublets had more fabric that fell from the waist, worn with an elaborate belt or chain. The sleeves fell to cuffs from which the shirt cuff would emerge with embroidery or ruffles.

A finely woven pair of hose was worn with these doublets.

Breeches:

Rarely worn but at the discretion of the gentlemen, the breeches were spliced and laced at the back, also worn with a doublet, but poofed until they tied at the knee. Worn with stockings and an elaborate overcoat, they were a definitive fashion statement most men were not bold enough to make.

Robe:

Depending on their rank, a nobleman might be called to wear his robe of state to Court. Typically composed of heavy velvet and trimmed in fur, these robes are also donned with the chains of nobility and office.

Armor:

Regardless of rank, once knighted, a man has the right to don armor in times of battle. At this time, full plate or mail is available, but are not worn at the same time - they're simply too heavy. Requiring the assistance of at least a squire to don either, armor may also be worn in times of tournament.

Knights and Knighted Nobles typically own two sets of armor - ceremonial (inlaid, embossed and highly engraved) and battlefield (practical, sturdy, strong).

Footwear:

Boots were the preferred footwear of the day for noblemen, reaching to the knee or mid-thigh depending on the whim of the nobleman. However, men could often wear soft leather soled shoes that could be slipped on as well. In formal court, they are expected to wear the leather shoes or low boots rather than the knee-high boots.

Jewelry:

Most nobles wear at least a signet ring on their right hand as a symbol of their rank and House. Other jewelry is worn at their discretion - some have a single pierced ear, while knights are permitted to wear the gold chain of chivalry. Councillors and certain ranked nobles are also endowed with chains of office.